Ovens that will not get hot
This is the booking we take most. On a fan-forced oven, a fan that spins with no heat behind it points at the fan element. An oven that heats slowly, or never reaches the dial temperature, can be a single failed element, a thermostat, or a temperature sensor feeding the control board the wrong number. If the safety switch drops out as soon as the oven comes on, an element has almost certainly broken down. Switch that one off at the wall and keep it off.
Cooktops
Induction cooktops are now standard in most new kitchens around Shell Cove and Calderwood. When they cut out partway through cooking, the fault is very often heat. The electronics under the glass need airflow from below, and a drawer packed hard against the underside or a blocked vent can trip them. Ceramic tops tend to fail at the element or the energy regulator for that zone. For a gas cooktop, ring with the model first so we can tell you whether the fault is ours or a job for a licensed gasfitter.
Doors, seals and glass
A door that will not close properly lets heat out and makes the oven work harder. Hinges wear, seals go hard and the inner glass can crack. Most of these parts are made for the specific model, so the model number matters here more than anywhere. It is usually on the frame when the door is open, or behind the bottom drawer.
Near the water
Ovens cope with sea air better than fridges and washing machines, because they are inside the cabinetry and run hot. The weak points are the cooling fan, the door hinges and the screws on the back panel, which rust in kitchens a short walk from the beach. Rangehoods cop it much worse, and we cover those on their own rangehood repairs page.
Getting the price right
Ring with the brand, the model number and exactly what the oven does. That usually lets the technician bring the likely part. The $125 assessment covers the visit and the diagnosis, and the repair price comes before any work.