A fridge door should close with a light push and stay closed. When it drifts open, the cause is nearly always one of four things: the fridge is not level, something inside is holding the door, the hinge has worn or loosened, or the seal has lost its grip. Left open even a few millimetres, the door lets warm air in all day, the compressor runs longer and the food does not stay as cold as it should.
Is the fridge level?
Most fridges are designed to lean very slightly backward, so the door swings shut on its own. If the front has been raised, or the floor slopes, the door swings the other way.
Look at the front feet. Most fridges have adjustable feet or front rollers that turn with a spanner or by hand. Lower the back slightly or raise the front a little less, then check that the door glides shut from a partly open position. A spirit level on top of the fridge, front to back, shows the lean.
Floors move after a delivery, a renovation or a flooring change, so a fridge that closed fine for years can start to drift open after the kitchen floor is replaced. If the fridge has just been moved, our post on a fridge on moving day covers how to stand it and when to switch it on.
Is something blocking the door?
Check the inside before the outside:
- A tall bottle, a tray or a drawer pushed to the edge of a shelf can stop the door sealing.
- A crisper drawer that has not been pushed fully home can hold the door open or make it rebound.
- Bins on the door loaded with heavy jars add weight that makes a door sag, and can pull the door off its closing line.
Take the load off the door bins first, then check the door again.
Is the hinge worn or loose?
A hinge that has worn or loosened lets the door drop, and a dropped door will not line up with the cabinet.
- Open the door and lift gently at the handle side. If the door moves up and down, the hinge pin or bushing is worn.
- Look at the top and bottom hinge for loose screws, and for plastic that has cracked or discoloured.
- A door that rubs on the cabinet or on the neighbouring cabinetry at one corner has usually dropped.
Tightening hinge screws is safe. Replacing hinges, pins and bushings is a repair, and on some models the door needs two people to lift it off safely.
Is the seal doing its job?
Close the door on a sheet of paper and pull the paper out. If it slides out with no drag at any point, the seal has lost its grip there. A cracked, hardened or dirty seal also lets the door spring open slightly, because the magnet in the seal is no longer holding it to the cabinet.
- Wipe the seal and the cabinet edge with warm water and a little detergent. Sticky residue stops a seal gripping.
- Press out any folds or kinks in a warm seal.
- If the seal is torn, flattened or has gaps at the corners, it needs replacing. The seal is matched to the model number.
Seal condition is one of the first things we check on an older fridge.
What about the gap at the cabinet?
Fridges in new kitchens are often fitted into joinery built to the fridge dimensions. If the joinery leaves too little space at the hinge side, the door cannot open fully, and if it rubs it will not close properly. A freestanding fridge also needs air around it. Our post on integrated appliances in new estates covers the fitting requirements.
When should I book a technician?
Book a repair if the fridge is level, the contents are clear and the door still will not stay shut, or if:
- the hinge pin or bushing has worn,
- the seal is damaged,
- the door is warped or has a cracked inner liner, or
- the door light stays on or the fridge beeps when the door is shut. See our post on a beeping fridge.
Have the make and model number ready, because hinges and seals are matched to the model. We are authorised to repair the major brands listed on our brands pages and carry genuine parts for them.
We cover Shellharbour City and the Lake Illawarra suburbs, domestic appliances only. The $125 fee is payable on every visit, and any repair is quoted before work starts. Book online or call 02 4229 3777 with the make and model number.